The lighting: essential for working at night!

Installation of a LED in Veroma Working Light
LED Resistors and Connector
Holders for Pistenking Auxilliary Beams
Hazard Flashers

Installation of a LED in Veroma Working Light

The Veroma working light (Article-No 207040) fits very well for the roof mounted working light for our snow cats. But it only consists of a plastic housing and a glas.

For installing a LED we adaptde a 3 mm reflector accordingly. First we shortened it by cutting off a bit at the front. Then we put in on a lathe and shaped the outside to make it fit into the reflector housing. Be sure to put a 3 mm metal rod into the hole for the LED. This enables tight clamping without destroying the part. If you don't have a lathe you can shape the part by hand, which takes more effort.
Then the back part of the reflector is shortened, where the LED is mounted. Drill a small hole in the housing for the wires, and finally glue the reflector with LED and the glass into place.

We also shortened the base a bit, otherwise it would stick too far above the roof. Drill a 4 mm hole into the cabin and glue the working light into the desired position.





LED Resistors and Connector

LEDs are perfect for models, they are cheap, small and extremly durable. The supply voltage for a LED is usually between 2 - 4 V and therefore always lower than the battery voltage of a model. Therefore resistors have to be used, which makes some modelers uncomfortable. But this is easier than thought. The internet has a lot of resistor calculators, we use this one:

LED Resistor Calculator

Tipp: Usse the BEC for the voltage supply to reduce the loss heat at the resistor. A good speed controler, like the double speed controler by Pistenking, has sufficient BEC power for the LEDs. The Pistenking speed controler has a 5,5V BEC-voltage, which has to be entered as operating voltage in the calculator. The forward voltage of the LED is found in the LED data sheet. Fitting resistors can be ordered directly at most LED online vendors.

Tipp: all radio controlled switches are switching the minus current. If the plus cable is run through the resistors, the different LED-voltages can be combined and you only need 2-3 resistors. For this one side of the resistors are joined together at the plus-side of the BEC, the other ends are attached to wires to the individual plus poles of the LEDs (white wires in the picture below). The minus poles of the LED (black wires) are attached to the connector and thus to the switch modules.

At the Graupner and Blizzard chassis the body is practically always mounted on a ply wood sheet, which is removed as a whole. A connector is recommended here to be able to detach the platform with the LEDs from the chassis with the receiver and the switch modules. We are using a computer network connector, also known as RJ45 or CAT5 connector. It has 8 wires, from which 7 can be used for different switching functions. You may simply cut a patch or network cable and use a RJ45 double connector, then you won't need special tools and crimp pliers.

We use these 8 wires like this (1 - 7 are minus wires)
1) rotating beacons
2) low beam, rear lights, cockpit light
3) high beam
4) fog beam
5) Additional high beams on the mirror holders and roof
6) rear beam
7) hazard lights (turn indicators as one group)
8) Plus wire

From these the positions 1-7 are switched with two CTI switch modules PS4o and PS4u using just one transmitter channel. Position 8 is used for the powered tiller wheel.


Holders for Pistenking Auxilliary Beams

We attached the Pistenking auxilliary beams to our self made PB600 mirror holders. For this we manufactured holders, which are similar to the Pistenking mirror holders. We have done it with a milling machine and a lathe, but it can also be done with miniature files and a drill press. A M 1,6 thread is tapped into the holders for attaching the auxilliary beams with M 1,6 bolts. The holders have been glued in place with Loctite 435.

The round holder for the auxilliary beam on the roof is appr. 2,6 mm long, also with a M 1,6 thread.

The dimensions on the drawing are for a mirror holder of 1 mm aluminum wire. For thicker wires the dimensions have to be adjusted accordingly.

The drawing can be downloaded by clicking on the picture.

Hazard Flashers

Hazard flashers can be realized very easily with the flasher module Kemo M079 (available at Conrad as article 191626 for € 5), as recommended by Klaus Bergdolt. The tiny electronic part is simply soldered to the LEDs: the minus wire of the CTI switch module is soldered to the minus contact, one of the two flasher contacts to the LED minus pole, and the plus contact is connected to the plus pole. Although the instructions demand a serial connection, we used a parallel connection for the 4 LEDs, and it works just fine with the resistor on the plus pole.

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