WARNING: The conversion requires a lot of skill. We do not take any responsibility and are not liable for any damage resulting therefrom. 

Base is a Pistenking beacon with a flat cap. The orange cap is only pressed on and may be removed. The electronics consists of 2 boards and are hold in place with hot glue. By carefully heating up with a hair dryer or hot air blower the glue will get soft again and the electronics can be removed. .
Attention: the two boards are connected by tow very thin wires. 

The orange cap is shortened with a fine model saw. About 6 mm (in scale 1:12) should remain for the upper part to have space for the electronics. For a perfect look the cap has to be sanded flat on top. Be careful here, as only a quite thin plastic layer will be left. The sanded area is then polished to high gloss. For this polishing pads from 2400 to 12000 grid are available. Alternatively a 1000 sand paper can be used and then paint it with a gloss clear coat. 

The black base has to be adapted at the inside and outside on a lathe. The inner part has to be widened so that the electronics will fit inside. The outer diameter should be reduced to 11.75 mm to avoid a step between the base and the orange cap. I also removed the bottom of the base to position the electronics as low as possible. But then the beacon must be glued to the model. The base is about 3.5 mm high. 

Finally the electronics are put inside the base, optionally they may be fixed with hot glue, and the cap is put on. The lighting sequence may be changed following the Pistenking instructions to match the original. 

Advice: order a few more spare orange caps at Pistenking. I damaged a couple of them in the process. ;-)